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Conan's Corridor
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Fool's Gold 

5.8 R

   

FA: Tom Davis, January 1987
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 109 page views

Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 3, 2003


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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

The beginning of Fool's Gold. A #3 does fit ...


Description 

Fool's Gold is the first (leftmost) route on the Corridor Face proper. It follows a prominent trough past a single bolt into and into a double crack system.

The cruxes are down low, at ten and twenty feet. The first is pretty much unprotected, but with a reasonably clean fall if you're well spotted. The second is slightly above your first gear.

The double cracks don't take gear the way you might hope, so don't pass up all of the pockets on your way up the trough.

All in all, a committing, relatively sustained, fun route at its grade.


Protection 

Standard rack through #3 Camalot.

Pro is adequate, but not abundant. Passing up any of the good placements will probably set you up for a groundfall.



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By Rogers, Graham
Dec 17, 2003

The first crux protects with a #3 Camalot; although not perfect, it seemed sufficient for the short, low-to-the-ground crux. The Camalot didn't get in the way of the move either, like I thought at first glance. Make two moves, then clip the bolt. Doubtful ground-fall potential if your belayer belays OK, and if the gear comes out, it should slow you down at least.