Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Mark Leading Stan and Ollie.
Description
Stan and Ollie follows a narrow dike that begins as leftward-trending, and straightens up fifteen feet or so off the ground. The straight up start is more difficult.
Start to the right, and gain a horizontal (so you're standing on top of the dike) about eight feet off the ground. Walk left and move up to the bolt; there's an opportunity for small gear to protect the potential ground fall here, but it's not great.
From the bolt, make a couple 5.7 sequences to gain a short, vertical, relatively shallow (deep enough for tricams, but some cams would be a little wide) crack. Fire the crack and belay atop the rock.
Walk off to climber's right.
Because of the relative ease of the walkoff and the proximity to Jumbo Rocks Campground (if you happen to be camping there), this is quite a nice place to spend sunset.
Protection
One bolt (3/8"), standard rack.
Smallish nut in an angled, sideways placement in the dike to protect the sequence onto the horizontal eight feet off the ground.
Medium cams/tricams for the belay anchor, maybe smaller depending on where you choose to build it. (Lots of good options.)
took a couple of fun ladies out to this one today... pretty easy stuff, but enjoyable... Lots of sun so a good area when colder (It was a bit Suzy Bake Oven today)...
By Chris Miller Administrator Oct 8, 2008 rating: 5.7 PG13
The solitary bolt on this route has been replaced.
Starting the route directly makes this about 5.9 in difficulty.
Nuclear Reactor Rock
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