Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Mike Morley wishing for super powers on Spiderman.
Description
This is a burly 10a in my opinion. My climbing partner kept repeating "There is no way this is 10a" all the way up while following. On first glance, it appears that the route is essentially over once you pull through the overhanging section 25' off the ground. To my surprise, I found the rest of the route to be pretty sustained all-in-all.
Begin just left of Colorado Crack. An overhanging section lies 25' off the deck. Above here, the flared crack is somewhat difficult to protect. The last 15' or so before topping out is wide and awkward.
Anchor: slung block.
To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right) as for Colorado Crack. This involves a move or two of downclimbing.
I went up there one summer afternoon, to beat the heat. Onsighted this thing on lead, it was hard, scaRy and long. Had to fight hard for that one. Rad climbing experience, rad climb!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Mar 19, 2003
Almost lost it on this one, right at the top, if my right foot hadn't accidentally slotted into a pocket I would have been off. Way strenno.
Looked like the protection would be tricky at some key spots because of the flare to the crack. We slung the block to toprope it, note that you need lots of extension to do this.Some painful finger locks down low due to grainy rock before the crack opens to hands and wider.Great climb, though. I thought it was harder than Colorado Crack, my partner found them to be about the same.
Bryce Breslin
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Apr 10, 2005
Climbed this route again today (4/10/05)and remembered how strenuous it was, yet also how good a climb it was, it's got some great moves over the bulge and up the crack to the offwidth, I arrived there feeling quite fresh - 10 seconds (and a few feet up the offwidth) later I was utterly knackered! I'm not so sure about 5.10a, sure the hardest move is about that, but geez, how to grade this one...? E2 5b that's my take.
Great route, as good or better than Colorado Crack. Seemed like solid 10b to me. Protects very well with 1/2 to 1 inch cams, with wider stuff (2-3 inches) helpful for the top.
I was second on this today. Definitely 10B. Wear long pants or tape your left leg.
By susan peplow From: Phx J-Tree Oct 9, 2006 rating: 5.10a
Followed this route recently. Glad I was wearing knickers and not shorts and it definitely gave me a run for the money. Looked (and after discussion confirmed) that it takes good pro which for some reason we thought it didn't. I'd do it again when in the area.
This is a great route that really requires a cool head if your largest piece is a #2 Camalot. Unfortunately I almost lost it when my foot got stuck 5 feet from the top and I was looking at 30' footer. Thank god for armbars.
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