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Conan's Corridor
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Gem 

5.8

   

FA: John Bald, Hugh Burton, and John Long - January 1974
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 489 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Oct 19, 2002


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Gem Jammin'. Cathy DeCecco enjoys the route. Phot...


Description 

Gem is a shorter crack (just 60') on the right hand side of the Corridor Face to the right of Colorado Crack. Climb the hand crack which widens to fists towards the top. Anchor: slung block (cordalette and/or long webbing helpful). To descend, scramble off to the north (climber's right). This involves a move or two of downclimbing.


Protection 

Single set of cams - .5 to 3".



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Conan's Corridor

BETA PHOTO: Conan's Corridor

Taryn at the beginning of the Gem, just after slinging the handle.

Taryn at the beginning of the Gem, just after slin...


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By Anonymous Coward
Mar 29, 2005

From the ground this think looks steep - and it is. It also looks like it should be a lot of fun, but the 'problem' is very, very gritty rock. Busted up my hands through my tape gloves!

Steep, gread jams, a lot of fun is you don't mind the pain. Unfortunately that spoiled it for me.

By Randy
Sep 19, 2005

The rock is not "gritty" (meaning loose ballbearings on surface); it is quite solid. The texture of all the cracks on this wall is coarse (but solid). Good jamming technique will allow you to easily climb it without tape and without damage to your hands.

By Woody Stark
Sep 20, 2005

Well, good technique or not, if I ever climb this route again, I'm going to tape my left arm to the elbow.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Feb 4, 2006
rating: 5.8

I agree with Woody. Whatever term used, it was rough rock. Not chossy, but a grinder nevertheless.

By Obi
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 4, 2006
rating: 5.8

2nd half of this crack is pure jamming. Great way to force new crack climbers to learn jamming techniques.

By susan peplow
From: Phx J-Tree
Oct 9, 2006
rating: 5.8

This route has teeth! I don't use mitts or tape but after climbing this route I was thinking about it!!

Fun but tough on the back of the hands. Ouch.

By Will S
Feb 23, 2007

It's true, the crack is very coarse, but the saving grace is the crystals are not sharp, they're pretty polished. The jug handle feature at the bottom is kinda cool, but I can't believe people sling it for pro...seems less than solid to me, to the point I wouldn't even pull on it.