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Description
Classic. Like Yosemite's Midnight Lightning, Hueco Tank's Ghetto Simulator or Boulder's Monkey Traverse, Gunsmoke requires little introduction.
The Gunsmoke Traverse is L-shaped and is usually done from left to right. Start as far left as possible, move right along the wall for about 50' past 2 crux sections, turn the corner (third crux), and continue another 35' along rails to a final bulge. If your guns aren't too smoked, reverse your moves back to the start.
GUNSMOKE IS LIKELY THE SINGLE MOST CROWDED ROUTE IN THE PARK, and it's not uncommon to find a dozen or more people there at any given time. Several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity, including the classic stemming problem Streetcar Named Desire (V6) and The Chube (V2). Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day - best done in the late afternoon.
If there is a huge crowd at Gunsmoke, go check out "The Chubb"(V2). It's in a group of three boulders a little further up the trail and to the left from Gunsmoke. Bring a crash pad!
This is just such an excellent problem. It is one of my favorites. I only wish it wasn't so popular as the area can be quite crowded with beginners.
V2: This problem, while long and strenuous, has no truly difficult moves on it. Also, in the interest of rating problems to suggest the difficulty, and not use it to boost one's ego (see Happy Boulders), lets call this one V2.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Mar 8, 2006 rating: V2
Except for a move or two turning the corner, this boulder problem is completely safe, positive and very fun. I remember being "lapped" by the Birdman...
By veritus From: redlands, ca Feb 19, 2008 rating: V1
V grades are based on the single most difficult move. Nothing on this traverse is more difficult than v1. Just because its super pumpy and not many v4 and under climbers can do it doesn't mean its v3. If it was in europe it wouldn't be given a bouldering grade.