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Gunsmoke Area Bouldering
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Birdman 
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Gunsmoke 
High Noon 
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Streetcar Named Desire 

Gunsmoke 

V3

   

FA: John Bachar
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V2-3 [details]
Views: 1,409 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Jan 1, 2002


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Carol with some short person's beta for what becom...


Description 

Classic. Like Yosemite's Midnight Lightning, Hueco Tank's Ghetto Simulator or Boulder's Monkey Traverse, Gunsmoke requires little introduction.

The Gunsmoke Traverse is L-shaped and is usually done from left to right. Start as far left as possible, move right along the wall for about 50' past 2 crux sections, turn the corner (third crux), and continue another 35' along rails to a final bulge. If your guns aren't too smoked, reverse your moves back to the start.

GUNSMOKE IS LIKELY THE SINGLE MOST CROWDED ROUTE IN THE PARK, and it's not uncommon to find a dozen or more people there at any given time. Several other quality problems can be found in the vicinity, including the classic stemming problem Streetcar Named Desire (V6) and The Chube (V2). Southern exposure makes this a hot one during mid-day - best done in the late afternoon.


Protection 

Crash pad.



Add Photo Photos of Gunsmoke
Hannah gives mom a spot as she nears the crux. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.

Hannah gives mom a spot as she nears the crux. Cop...

I wish I could do this traverse

I wish I could do this traverse

Approaching crux #1 Photo by T.Tennessee

Approaching crux #1 Photo by T.Tennessee

Heading for a rest in the corner.

Heading for a rest in the corner.

A well earned rest....

A well earned rest....

Self portrait; just after the start

Self portrait; just after the start

Chris pumping and soaking up the sun on the Gunsmoke.  He liked the name so much, he then decided to have a smoke.

Chris pumping and soaking up the sun on the Gunsmo...

races in reverse

races in reverse

Dave Bruckman doing a lap.  Early '80s?

Dave Bruckman doing a lap. Early '80s?

left wall.  (photo: Dave Verdugo)

left wall. (photo: Dave Verdugo)


Add Comment Comments on Gunsmoke
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By Murf
Nov 12, 2002

If there is a huge crowd at Gunsmoke, go check out "The Chubb"(V2). It's in a group of three boulders a little further up the trail and to the left from Gunsmoke. Bring a crash pad!

By Gary Kleiger
Mar 20, 2003

This is just such an excellent problem. It is one of my favorites. I only wish it wasn't so popular as the area can be quite crowded with beginners.

V2: This problem, while long and strenuous, has no truly difficult moves on it. Also, in the interest of rating problems to suggest the difficulty, and not use it to boost one's ego (see Happy Boulders), lets call this one V2.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Mar 8, 2006
rating: V2

Except for a move or two turning the corner, this boulder problem is completely safe, positive and very fun. I remember being "lapped" by the Birdman...

By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Feb 19, 2008
rating: V1

V grades are based on the single most difficult move. Nothing on this traverse is more difficult than v1. Just because its super pumpy and not many v4 and under climbers can do it doesn't mean its v3. If it was in europe it wouldn't be given a bouldering grade.

By Brandon Lampley
From: Boulder, CO
May 12, 2008

Let's just call it 11c, that's what it is, and 80ft route.