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Pigpen Boulder
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Pigpen 

Pigpen 

V4

   

FA: Michael Paul
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V4 [details]
Length: 10 feet
Views: 851 page views

Submitted By: Josh Beck on Apr 12, 2003


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Carol working the tight hands / off fingers topout...


Description 

Behind Cyclops rock is this awesome boulder problem. A sit start in a cave starts you out 10' of finger crack through the roof in the cave, to a tight-hands swing around the lip and then fingers, off fingers and tight hands lead to a funky top out that is for many the crux.


Protection 

Mostly low to the ground but the topout is about 12' and a pad is probably desirable.



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Carol under the roof on Pigpen...

Carol under the roof on Pigpen...

Unknown burly boulder problem, right after this picture was taken, I tried it sans pad, a mistake! I did finally get the send, serious line, wish I had tape...

Unknown burly boulder problem, right after this pi...

Nick giving his all on Pigpen. January 2008.

Nick giving his all on Pigpen. January 2008.

The final slanting crack of Pigpen, V4

The final slanting crack of Pigpen, V4

The final slanting crack of Pigpen (V4) in profile, its steep and pumpy.

The final slanting crack of Pigpen (V4) in profile...


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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
From: Escondido, Ca
Mar 24, 2006
rating: V4

Certainly in the top 10 boulder problems in JTree. Very unique.

By Jeremy Schlick
Nov 10, 2006

hhhhmmmmm... They don't make em much better than this. Indeed a rare blessing.

By Jeremy Werlin
Dec 31, 2006
rating: V4

One of my all time favorites. Tape up if you're working it. Thanks to Mike Paul for the excavation.

By Will S
Oct 18, 2007
rating: V4

Fantastic problem and somewhat tricky at the beginning. Many people call the ending vertical section/exit the crux, but I would disagree. Gaining the large flake at the pod about halfway out the roof seemed to be the crux to me with powerful pulls with bad feet. The crux can be dispatched with hard cranking, or sneaky toe hooking in the pod by swinging the feet ahead of you and then spinning the body and working the secondary crack to get your head back in front of your feet. This thing is pretty harsh on your second knuckles, Werlin is right on about taping if working it...and I almost never tape. Get it sussed, then get rid of the aid (tape) and send it. Definitely one of the best problems at Josh.