Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Casino Royale & Sweat Band
Description
Begin by climbing Sweat Band to the second bolt. When your feet are just above the second bolt, traverse straight left past a bolt (10+) over to the seam on Panama Red. Make a tough move to gain the fourth bolt (11-) then follow the seam (10+) up to easier face climbing past 2 more bolts to the top.
Location
Although this link-up only involves about 30 feet of new climbing, the entire pitch is one of the best face climbs in Indian Cove campground. Best conditions are the coldest days, as the sun bakes this south-facing cliff.
Hey Duke: you can call it a squeeze job, but essentially its a traverse between two existing routes. You clip the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverse almost straight left over to Panama Red. (The third bolt is well camouflaged by the way, so unless you're really looking for it, you'll never see it.) The last three bolts are on Panama Red in the same spots as the chopped bolts. (It had been previously bolted, then chopped, many years ago) I did my best to patch the ugly scars and craters that existed from the result of whomever did the chopping- it wasn't pretty.
Climb the route before you dis it! Dave Mayville did the second ascent and he thought it was great.
You're right Chris, there was one bolt still there, I believe it was the second to the last bolt (which would be the fifth bolt on the route) which was good to go.
King Otto's Castle
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