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King Otto's Castle
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Black Max (aka Corridor Crack) 
Bridge, The 
Casino Royale 
Date Queen 
Don Genaro Crack 
Goodbye Mr. Bond 
Leaving Las Vegas 
Panama Red 
Plain But Good Hearted 
Shaken Not Stirred 
Sweat Band 
Sweat Pants 
Tarawassie Wiggle 

Casino Royale 

5.11a

   

FA: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, Feb 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 90 feet
Views: 283 page views

Submitted By: Bob Gaines on Feb 7, 2008


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BETA PHOTO: Casino Royale
& Sweat Band



Description 

Begin by climbing Sweat Band to the second bolt. When your feet are just above the second bolt, traverse straight left past a bolt (10+) over to the seam on Panama Red. Make a tough move to gain the fourth bolt (11-) then follow the seam (10+) up to easier face climbing past 2 more bolts to the top.


Location 

Although this link-up only involves about 30 feet of new climbing, the entire pitch has a lot of great face climbing. It's a tough lead, but easy to TR off the Sweat Band anchor. Best conditions are the coldest days, as the sun bakes this south-facing cliff.


Protection 

6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor, 90 ft.



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By Bob Gaines
Feb 7, 2008

The third bolt is a tough clip, so be ready. I clipped it with my left hand.

While there are probably no moves harder than 10+, the traverse is sustained, and the move to the fourth bolt is tricky, so 11a overall.

One of my favorite face pitches in Indian Cove Campground.

By The Duke
Jun 2, 2008

OMG - squeezius maximus!!Might as well rap bolt Panama Red while your at it.

By Bob Gaines
Jun 3, 2008

Hey Duke: you can call it a squeeze job, but essentially its a traverse between two existing routes. You clip the first two bolts of Sweat Band, then traverse almost straight left over to Panama Red. (The third bolt is well camouflaged by the way, so unless you're really looking for it, you'll never see it.) The last three bolts are on Panama Red in the same spots as the chopped bolts. (It had been previously bolted, then chopped, many years ago) I did my best to patch the ugly scars and craters that existed from the result of whomever did the chopping- it wasn't pretty.

Climb the route before you dis it! Dave Mayville did the second ascent and he thought it was great.

By Chris Miller
Administrator
Jun 3, 2008

There should have been one bolt already in place on Panama Red (near the top) which I placed about 1998 or so.

By Bob Gaines
Jun 3, 2008

You're right Chris, there was one bolt still there, I believe it was the second to the last bolt (which would be the fifth bolt on the route) which was good to go.

By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Dec 12, 2008

Poor route. Squeezed in and a contrived bolt line. Clips are hard because the good holds are on existing and adjacent routes.

By Bob Gaines
Dec 14, 2008

The only tough clip is the third bolt. Besides the 30 foot traverse, all of the climbing (and bolt clips) are on previously existing routes: Panama Red (which gets 3.7 stars on mountain project) and Sweat Band (2.5 stars). The traverse consists of an incredible series of edges, on some nice patina, across one of the steepest sections of King Otto's south face. I'll admit it's contrived, but it's also very fun.
Sounds like you didn't send it?

By caughtinside
From: Point Richmond, CA
Dec 15, 2008

Sorry Bob. I think you really forced one here. No way no how is this a 3 star route. 1 max.