Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Unknown climber approaching the anchors. Photo by...
Description
This newish sport climb is located in the small cove directly behind (east of) Billboard buttress and 40' left of the route White Trash. Good protection with fun moves make this a worthwhile addition to the area - especially on those cold and windy days
A small cam (.5") can be placed before the first bolt and additional pro (2-2.5") is possible after the last bolt if desired. The climb has been done on toprope straight up from the first bolt at 5.10+ as well.
As well, you can go driectly upward from the big arching flake after bolt #2, to the last bolt. This way is steep and significantly harder than the line as bolted, but is fun.
I did the route recently with locker, and i really enjoyed it.. leading it would be a bitch if you were under 5'9. its somewhat height dependant, but dont let that discourage you from going to do it.. seeings that you can set a top rope anchor if you carefully go up the gully to the right (as your coming in from the road you will see the anchors and to the right there is a gully) your shoes will definatly be needed, as are some cams an over the shoulders (to get over to the bolt and pins safely) put there are 3 good anchor points up top, 1 good 3/8 bolt and 2 glued in pins (both are good) all with rings on them. I belive that there is 3-4 bolts on the face for leading it
I took a small group of beginners out on this one again today and really enjoied it... The crux has a nice move that requires good balance and finesse for an easier rated route... I see where Chris has mentioned that additional pro can be placed so on and so forth... Personally I see no reason for it. I have led this thing many times (never falled though) and do not feel the need for any other pro other than what is on the rock already... It is a well thought out route and protected nicely...
An OK route to do to impress all the tourist on-lookers. Just smile for their camera. Balance is all you really need for the positive edges.
By Dave Daly From: Temecula, CA Dec 3, 2007 rating: 5.9-
I agree...it is a fun route. It would be an even finer route if the rock quality was better. Half the route is kitty litter. Even though I'm 6'1" and felt that it was challenging 5.8, my wife and partner is significantly shorter (5'4") and found moving to from the left facing flake to the medium flatish hold below the 3rd bolt was truly height dependant, thus I felt that as a whole, this route should be a soft 5.9.
The Bilbo Buttresses
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