Another classic J. Tree crack that's hidden from view and requires a healthy approach to visit.
Thin moves left past a bolt (crux) gain the crack proper which affords great jamming with good gear. Gear belay and walk off or rap from anchors atop Carmania.
Very fine climb with one superfluous bolt at the start of the short traverse (solid TCU placements are adjacent to the bolt). Apparently the bolt was added after the FA.
Did this route a couple of years ago, and again last year. The key foothold has gone from a thought provoking C shaped smear to a larger square cut hold. Chipping?? Agreed that the bolt is not required and the gear placement more confidence inspiring than the bolt anyway. Great route though and well worth the hike.
By Chris Miller Administrator Feb 12, 2005 rating: 5.9
The "solid TCU placments" that Vern mentions are in a loose flake of rock which surely would break if fallen on repeatedly. Crux moves past the bolt lead into the crack proper which eats up gear, particularly hexes. A hidden gem of the Indian Cove area that's worth the somewhat arduous approach. Three stars out of five.
Ancient Kingdom
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