Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: "Dry Lake". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
Around the corner at the east end of the Feudal Wall and to the right of the Panther crack is a left facing lie-back crack and face. Climb to a bolt about fifteen feet above. The crux is getting by this bolt. They key is the hidden crack well to your right. If you can't reach it, the difficulty goes way up.
Fine route but tricky. At the crux be sure to reach to your far right across the face and feel for the hidden crack. Without that to pull on, it will be a good deal harder. I think most of the gentle sex will find the move an eleven something or other. I failed many times before I found the key. After I made the move successfully and was reaching for the upper bolt, the damn wind blew me of, and I got to do it again.
By Chris Miller Administrator Apr 12, 2005 rating: 5.10b
Despite being a little grainy this is a fun route that's worth doing. The first bolt replaces a fixed pin placed on the FA. One and a half/two stars out of five.
I have led this route and enjoyed it very much. This past week I seconded Woody on it. It has a really cool move requiring some balancing on somewhat grainy slab at the crux. Beyond that it is pretty straight forward. A few draws, no anchors. Easy walkoff!
Feudal Wall
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