Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Cal Gerberding on "Goodbye Mr. Bond". Photo by Bli...
Description
This route is the left-most on the main (south) face of King Otto's Castle. Given the same rating as Sweat Band in most guidebooks but it seems a little more difficult. Some tricky moves at the start give way to balancy, sporty moves higher up. A 2.5" piece can be placed in a horizontal crack after the last bolt to lessen the runout to the anchors.
Typically given fewer stars than Sweat Band in most guides but the steeper, more varied climbing make this a better route IMO, and one to check out if in the area. Three stars out of five.
Protection
4 bolts to a bolted anchor (3/8"), a 2.5" piece is helpful after the last bolt.
The first three bolts are 3/8" and decent, but the last bolt is a 5/16" buttonhead with a Leeper hanger. A 1.25" piece may be placed in the large flake between bolts three and four (not terribly confidence inspiring) as well as a 1" piece and/or 2.5" piece in the horizontal after the last bolt. All bolts should be upgraded to 1/2" due to the rock quality (or lack thereof) and steepness (at the bottom).
The first bolt is a ways up off a small shelf, so a spot may be prudent prior to clipping it.
King Otto's Castle
RSS Feed
