Fluff Boy 

FA:  Todd Gordon et al Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 87 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: "Fluff Boy". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This route is located on the far left side of the Short Wall between Double Trouble (5.10a) and Belay Girl (5.10c). Climb up an easy crack system Mad Race (5.4) for about twenty feet and then cut right via a right-slanting flake system (pro to 3"). The rock is somewhat dubious so load up on gear, and then smear your way up past two bolts to the top (it's easier to cut left for a move or two and then back right above the last bolt). Bolted anchor on top and easy downclimb via several options.

This climb is a testament not only to the powers of cleaning via traffic, as when this route was first done it was terribly grainy, but also to Todd's vision to see a fun route despite all of the chossy rock. One star out of five.

Protection 

pro to 3", 2 bolts (3/8", 5/16"), bolted anchor (3/8")