Frontier Justice 

FA:  Geoff Archer and Alan Bartlett 10/90 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 133 page views Submitted By: Chris Miller on Jan 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Early repeat for Bartlett's guidebook cover

Description 

Located on a northerly-facing block that faces towards the left side of the Corral Wall, this climb is shady most of the day. If approaching from the vicinity of the Corral Wall it helps to stay high and to the right in the boulders on the approach.

A hand crack start leads up to an imposing roof (5.10+) which goes at a far easier grade than appearances suggest. Once established over the lip the climbing is off-vertical, thin face with difficult smearing. The crux will be found around the vicinity of the fifth bolt with easier moves leading to the top and a bolted anchor/rap.

This spectacular route is well worth the rugged thirty minute approach. Not quite a sport climb, but except for the crack start the rest of the route is protected like one. Four stars out of five for enjoyable positioning and the high-quality moves.

Protection 

7 bolts, 2.5" piece, bolted anchor/rap