Wild Wild West 

FA:  Geoff Archer & Louie Anderson 2/90 Type:  Sport Length:  1 pitch, 70 feet Views: 94 page views Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Jan 5, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This was a fun route. I've heard it told that the route is 5.11 if you eliminate the obvious wide crack on the left. But why? You can sit in a no-hands knee bar while clipping the bolts, so it seems natural to do it that way. The 10c grade assigned here is accounting for that. The first few clips are close to the crack and if you do use the crack at first for a kneebar, or later for an arete-like pinch or slappy lieback/barndoor, the crux comes just after leaving the crack to go belly-to-the bolts. There is a small and relatively blank section of face (10c?). Finish on easier climbing to reach a solid anchor.

Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!

Rap to the ground to descend.

Protection 

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor or TR from the anchor. The bolts are pretty close together and the lead is not too "sporty".