Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Shane on the Sharp End
Description
This is a fun and juggy route. There were a few decently protected cruxes where smaller holds had to be used, but all in all it was sinker holds. This was in sharp contrast to most of my "smearing" J-Tree experiences. It was more like climbing Southeastern sandstone!
This climb is on the right-hand portion of the Corral Wall, towards the left end of that side. Climb a dark wall with a few bolts and huge, apparent juggy holds, eventually going up and right into a light section of rock to finish at a 2 bolt anchor.
Rap to the ground with a 60 meter rope to descend.
Protection
4 bolts and a few slings on chicken heads. The lead is heady, but probably not dangerous. The runouts are on easier ground and non-threatening if you don't go tearing off holds. Maybe the grade should be weight-dependant?The rock was solid enough to be safe in my opinion.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jan 22, 2007 rating: 5.9+
Good route that makes you think just off the deck. Reachy committing move to clip third bolt. Vogel guide rates this route at 9+ in my opinion any of the moves from the start past 3rd bolt is more difficult than "Hang 'em High" which is rated .10a.
Great route, makes you wish that Bart Groendycke(Megalith Clothing)& his brother Todd put up more routes in the area.
Corral Wall
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