Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: "Feast". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
This is a route not described in the Bartlett or Vogel books. I am guessing at it's difficulty, but it was certainly insecure, and probably 5.11a - 11c, maybe harder. At Josh I have a hard time differentiating between security and difficulty because I judge difficulty by my perceived odds of falling off.Suffice it to say, I felt like I could have come off on this one, and the 10's had been feeling really secure.
On a distinctly white section of face near the center of the main south face, perhaps 8 meters right of Lunch and 5 meters right of a lone bolt in an easy groove, there is a bolt on the face. This is up perhaps 2 meters from a horizontal break in the rock. Climb up to this and establish feet to clip a bolt, then climb the crux (insecure, & possibly height-dependant) to palm smear up above. Then climb easier rock (ground fall potential, but 5.5 or so) up to distinct dark features at a slight bulge and 2 more bolts. Top out and belay on a 2-bolt anchor.
Fun, puzzling, and Oh my god I can't believe I stuck to that!?!?
Protection
a few draws for clips. The first bolt is 6 meters up, the second 20 meters, but the climbing between is not hard.
Campfire Crag - South Face
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