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The Bilbo Buttresses
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Val De Mello 

5.10c

   

FA: Todd Gordon, Cyndie Bransford, Doug Zeissner & John Thackray 12/89
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on Dec 28, 2004


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

BETA PHOTO: "Valle De Mello".
Photo by Blitzo.



Description 

OK, maybe it was just me, but I thought this line was hard for its given grade of 10b. Around to the right of Bilbo Buttress, one can find this short line of bolts, centered on an tiny, odd, 'ramp' feature near the climb's base. Climb up and onto this and beyond. The crux was a weird combination of balance and friction that was a little unpleasant for a J-tree warm up or welcome, and felt sandbagged. None the less, the climb had merit in teaching what is possible on that rock compared to what I am used to in other areas.


Protection 

4 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (Watch the first clip!)



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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Mar 29, 2007

This climb is 5.11. It's hard. Tony is correct. It is under-rated at 5.10c. (Sorry about that...)