Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
This is a curious route: the chalk line moves up well right of the first bolt then left between the first and second bolts; and, after leading it, I understand. Getting to the first bolt is serious business. If you blow it, ask the medics for demerol; it's a trip.
By C Miller Administrator Jan 22, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Decent enough climbing on this route and somehow it's position on the left edge of the wall makes this less crowded than some of the other routes.
This route is somewhat infamous due to the fact that a number of years back a climber died on this route due to a crucial fixed pin being misssing from the horizontal (which has since been replaced with a bolt) and the climber continued past, fell and hit his head.
There were approximately 50-75 fixed pins stolen from JT that season, some of which have been replaced, some not. Rumor has it the thieves were some dirtbag climbers who wanted to put together a "cheap" pin rack for The Valley.
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