Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: "Not Just Another Pretty Face". Photo by Blitzo.
Description
Located roughly in the center of the Feudal Wall, this is the route just left of Crown Jewels (5.9), and could potentially be done as a harder, but more solid alternative to the first pitch to that route.
Scramble up easy ledges to reach a bolt above a narrow ledge about 20' up, then make some reachy moves utilizing a black knob and some edges to reach easy terrain (sparse pro here) above the bolt. Higher, pass some horizontals and enter the crux - a steep seam/crack which offers good protection, although hanging out to place it may be problematic. The climbing is characterized by finger locks in a flared crack as you pull a bulge which gives way to easy but very grainy finishing moves. Large cams are useful in a grainy, flared crack 10' above the flat ledge atop the route.
While not a classic by any means, this route offers some decent climbing with protection that is better than apperances might suggest. One star out of five.
Protection
bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"
Add CommentComments on Not Just Another Pretty Face
I have to agree with Chris. Although not a classic, there are some classic moves. The bulge is downright fun and the finger crack (IMHO) fell a bit easier than 10c. I can't usually do 10c fingers!
I do remember doing/trying and getting my butt kicked on what I thought was an 5.11a..b..or maybe c? That top section was.........well...........blank...
Feudal Wall
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