Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Description
Left of Cuatro Manos, this is the center crack on the Detached Wall. Crack starts in an alcove, with a flake on the outside edge. A large, downward jutting, phallic shaped flake sits just right of the crack at the top of the alcove.
Climb the creaky flake to good finger jams at the top of the alcove. A leader may want to avoid using the as-yet undetached flake, although it is reported as solid. Continue through an offwidth to another section of good fingers and thin hands.
Protection
Standard rack, plus #4 Camalot, a small nut/purple TCU may be used at the start.
Sustained and varied climbing on good rock makes this a challenging and engaging lead - three out of five stars. Don't yard too hard on the "flaccid" phallus!
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