The Last of the Gohegans 

FA:  Kris Solem & Ken Gohegan, 1992 Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 178 page views Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 20, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Desperately searching for a positive hold as Mike ...

Description 

This is the first route as you enter Indian Country from the east. Before you start the climb make sure your belayer is anchored to the wall (TCU's). Begin off of a boulder and traverse right on edges to a bolt. The first crux section (11+) entails awkward stemming across a scooped out area (good edges for feet - microedges for hands) and then searching for a hand hold in a flared tips crack located around a bulge. Higher up, the flared tips crack widens into a beautiful finger crack that ends at a roof where the second crux (11b) is encountered (bolt protected). Pull the roof and enter an easy / fun hand crack (5.7) to the top. Four out of five stars!

Protection 

Small TCU's (#0 - #3), small stoppers, two bolts, and a few medium sized cams provide adequate pro. A large oak tree on a ledge at the top can be slung for an anchor. Fist sized cams are also useful.