Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Yet another classic face climb by Bob Gaines... Begin just left of The Highwayman and make committing moves in a left tending direction to the first bolt. Continue past four more bolts and one piton to the crux section. Very difficult moves are encountered getting to the sixth bolt (tenuous clip!) and short traverse to the thin crack (aka Skyline Finish of The Highwayman) after the 6th bolt. Two more pitons and gear protect the thin crack to the top. Four out of five stars.
Protection
Quickdraws for 6 bolts and three pitons. TCU's (#1 - #4) or brass / small stoppers are useful for the thin crack finish. Medium cams for the anchor.
By C Miller Administrator Feb 6, 2004 rating: 5.12b
Great technical climbing with continuous moves throughout, but the beat-out seam detracts slightly from the overall quality of the route. Three stars out of five.
Bob placed a two bolt anchor atop this route on FA (12/97), but I guess it has been removed. He called it a sport route (with all the fixed gear), but maybe not?
Lighten up Chris...It isn't as if a hammer and chisel were used to make an additional hold. It's my understanding that the edge, large enough for one and a half finger tips, was the result of pounding in a copperhead when the route was established on aid. The climbing is excellent on excellent rock.
Six bolts for 80' of sustained climbing a sport route? How many sport routes require gear placements? Yes, the anchors are gone.
Great long climb with good protection of bolts and fixed pins. There is a substantial runout to the first bolt. The moves to the 6th bolt (hard to clip) and the traverse to the crack are very hard. Thought it might be harder than 12b. The anchors at the top are back.
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