This is the prominent right-leaning crack in the center of the wall. The crux is a flaring handcrack in a red bulge 100' up. Above the crux, move right 10' to an easy crack leading to the summit.
This route was cool!!! Some loose stuff as can be expected ,but overall this route was super fun.Long route short crux. Go to the bulkhead and walk to the right around it. You cannot miss this gem. Hope your sport climbing legs are in shape for the hike.
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Dec 6, 2006 rating: 5.10b
This thing is a sad joke. You guys got us good on this one. A giant hike followed by super loose rock to an unispiring and contrived crux. At least I saw a rat and some nice cactus or the whole day would have been waste. To give this 4 stars means that things like Wanger Banger, Illusion Dweller and Coarse and Buggy should be 50 stars. Avoid this travesty at all costs.
120ft. of 5.8 followed by 10ft. of 5.10 is hardly worthy of " classic status". If it wasn't for the horrendous approach, I'd have bagged it upon first sight! This route will indeed clean up after about twenty more ascents, but I'd never recommend anyone ever slogging out there to bother!
This thing is not anywhere near being a classic. Loose, not sustained, way the hell out there, and overrated. Mostly 5.7 with a short 8ft section of "the business". Save your time and energy, this and the other routes in the immediate area are total piles and wouldn't be worth climbing if they were next to the road, much less a 40min uphill march.Nice bee hive in the crack for you nature lovers.
Vernal Walls
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