Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Kris at the last bolt on the runout upper slabby s...
Description
This 160' pitch on the west end of Rattlesnake Buttress begins at the base of an intermittent black vertical dike. Steep face climbing on thin edges (crux past third bolt) leads to doubled bolts 40' up (lower section of route - possible belay / rappel). Continue on lower angle runout slab to the rappel anchor. A long route with some interesting moves but there are too many exfoliating flakes for this to be a 3 out of 5 star climb.
Protection
Quickdraws for eight bolts (1/4" and 3/8") to a two bolt (3/8") anchor. Two ropes are needed for one rappel to the ground (160').
Roy McClenahan lead the first 30' + and drilled the first 2 bolts (this woud have been Spring '79), but he felt bolt #2 was shitty bailed. Hence the name Roy's Route..