Approaching the crux section on the arete. The bol...
Description
This classic route ascends the left arete past 4 bolts for over 100' to the top of the formation. Large holds and small ledges on exquisite rock are experienced for the duration of the climb.
Protection
Medium cams or medium stoppers for the initial crack section and quickdraws for four bolts. The anchor is one 5/8" bolt with a quick shut and rappel ring.
While the climbing is great, it is a very short route with basically 10 or 15 feet of real climbing. I would not really say worthy of the four stars the guide gives it. Definitely fun and well protected though.
Note that if you rap off the single bolt up top you will not make it to the ground with a 60m - you end up having to rap off the end and dropping a couple feet. It works, but be prepared.
This climb is featured in a video that I created for one of my film classes. For the video we approached via the North Wonderland trail - much longer but more scenic than the Rattlesnake Canyon approach. The video can be seen here
The Slatanic Area has superb positioning up on a ridge, making for a very photogenic climb. Great rock and cool moves on the arete and face, but as Graham said it's got a short crux with a lot of easier climbing. If you're in the area you might also consider scrambling on over to the opposite side of Valley of the Kings and climbing the Firewater Chimney, another 5.10b, and one of the best in the park.
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