Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Entering the crux section; the curiously...
Description
This is the next bolted route left of Party In the Desert, and offers quality slab climbing with generally good protection.
Two starts exist for this route - the recommended start is via a thinning crack (pro to 1.25") that climbs directly to the second bolt, while the alternative (and original) start passes a solitary bolt right of the crack and involves contrived moves up and left to join the second bolt.
The crux comes at the fourth bolt as you mantle a tiny shelf (optional 0.5" cam here) and then make delicate moves past it. Higher more friction moves lead up to a bolted anchor.
Fun moves on good rock that will test your footwork and nerves, albeit safely. One star out of five, but add a star for the direct (crack) start.
I've led this route a number of times; it's sustained, challenging and harder than 10a. It's one of my favorite routes on "Corral Wall".
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 16, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Single move of 10a if you approach from directly below the bolts. Maybe 1 move a little harder if you climb in from the right, as the line of bolts would imply is intended. But I don't get it...The direct line looks natural and well, direct. The traverse in seems contrived and unneccessary. As well, it's no easier. Maybe it was placed to give an "all sport" option while not placing a bolt by a servicable gear placement?
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Jan 22, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Bartlett guide for Indian Cove suggests you can skip the first bolt. If coming up from the left that seems reasonable. I went up on the right and wouldn't consider skipping it. Second bolt difficult to clip. Upper section which looks steep provides good edges and smearing. Fun.
Corral Wall
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