The lower portion of Party In The Desert (5.10b). ...
Description
The Corral Wall is broken into two distinct halves which are separated by a deep chimney/gully system. This route takes a mixed line on the left side immediately right of a wide crack with some wedged boulders up high.
Easily the best climb at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. Clip a bolt on the headwall and make balancy moves up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to delicate steep edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.
The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite. Three stars out of five.
Protection
3 bolts (1/2"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (1/2")
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Nov 4, 2003
If I recall correctly (it was '95 I think), the crux is right BEFORE the second bolt. I remember because as I was trying to regain my balance after high-stepping, I fell before clipping it and took a 20-footer! Balancy indeed!
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Nov 24, 2003 rating: 5.10b
An intricate climb with lots of cool moves. My crux was after clipping the first bolt, I did a messy lunge move for the bottom of the third crack, smack my wrist.
IMO, the intial moves getting to the bottom of the crack was the crux. Getting to the third bolt seemed a bit of a mental crux. Excellent route! My first Josh .10b.
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