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Rattlesnake Buttress
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Eureka! 

5.12a

   

FA: Bob Gaines, circa 1994
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 573 page views

Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2002


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Bobby P. on Eureka.


Description 

This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up.

Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal.

Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress.


Protection 

10 bolts, bolted anchor/rap



Photos of Eureka! Slideshow Add Photo
Rappelling Eureka

Rappelling Eureka

Bob Gaines on the first ascent

Bob Gaines on the first ascent

Photo by John Heyges<br />a) 200 Motels<br />b) Eureka

BETA PHOTO: Photo by John Heyges
a) 200 Motels
b) Eureka



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By Vernon Stiefel
Dec 14, 2003
rating: 5.12b

This incredible route is another classic by Bob Gaines. Sustained 5.11 face climbing past the first 7 bolts leads to a very difficult move to an undercling and the 8th bolt. Gaining the 9th bolt involves perplexing and strenuous moves; once deciphered enlightenment is achieved. At least four out of five stars.