Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
My girlfriend onsighting Taken for Granite. The f...
Description
This is the obvious left-arching crack splitting Rattlesnake Buttress. Start with a 5.8 boulder problem under a small roof. Climb a wide slot with a finger crack on the right for 30' to the top of a large block. From here, stay left in the beautiful hand/finger crack.
2 rope rap from slings or easy 5th class descent down gully behind the face.
Start is the same as for 200 Motels. More outstanding crack climbing, only better! Negotiate the chimney, but enter the left-hand crack. Jam to the top of the crack, then ~15 feet of easy (low 5th) face moves lead to rap slings. At the time of our ascent, we replace an old sling with some 1" tubular and added an additional rap ring. A double-rope rappel right down the clean face below gets you back to your gear. Retrace your steps back to the car...
This would be a four-star route if the route ended at the logical ending, not at the ugly sling wad at the top of the formation. We were thinking there should be bolts at the top of the crack, making for a perfect 35-meter pitch. As it is now, one must run it out to the top and try to find weathered slings while dragging along a second rope.
The pitch length in this database is a bit short. It is more like a 140 foot pitch. My 70 meter rope runs a bit long and I was just able to rap angling east and land at the start of Eureka, then do a bit of downclimbing to get to the start. I can usually rap 130 feet no problem with that rope.
The sling-wad at the top is a bit of an eye-sore and I would have cut them all out if I had brought a knife. The down climb involves scrambling down a chimney off the back side, then head climbers right through a yucca. A really nice climb with good rock.
Rattlesnake Buttress
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