Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
High above the sea of topropes lies a beautiful right-facing corner. This is La Reina ("The Queen"), a short, sustained, and somewhat awkward handcrack with nice edges for the right hand and foot. Scramble up the 4th/low 5th class gully right of Swishbah to the base. This excellent route should not be missed!
A slung horn may be used for the belay.
To descend, scramble off to the west and back around to the base.
This is a fun, if a bit short lead. A good test for those breaking into 5.9 leading - it's a little steep and pumpy but features solid jams. You'll probably want gear to 2-2.5" though, as I recall it being sustained hands and tight hands, though it's been a while since I've done it.
josh
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 4, 2003
You can also get by nicely using just TCUs and small cams up to about a .75 BD, as the crack narrows toward the back.
Careful with some of those flakes...a few are a bit flexy. Small gear works well. A bit short, or you could continue uprun-out un-protected chossy 5.4 jugs. If that's your sort of thing.
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