Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Fred Beckey, still leading at age 80+!
Description
Short but sweet slab route on the lower (left) end of Indian Palisades Corridor -- duck around the right side of Willit Pillar, do a short scramble up to your left, and you're there -- almost directly behind the pillar. The climb ascends the middle of the face past an obvious line of bolts. It is well-bolted, classic Joshua Tree friction. Good practice for longer slab climbs like Double Dip, Stichter Quits, and Walk on the Wild Side. My only complaint is that it's too short!!
Vogel rates this climb at 5.5, but Bartlett calls it a 5.7. Splitting the difference and calling it 5.6 sounds about right to me.
Protection
4 or 5 bolts on the route; I believe there's a two-bolt anchor, although it's been a while.
My son and I have done this route many times and find it to be a very enjoyable climb around sunset this glorious summer of 2003. We pack some food and hang out up top, feel the breeze, watch the changing light. I feel 5.6 is a fair rating. I have climbed it backwards before (toes towards the belayer on the ground). Then I feel a 5.7 rating is closer. One thing is for sure, in the late afternoon, it's a kick to run laps on.
Today Jacob led his first time today on this slab. I congratulate him. 14yr old local kid that someday may well kick our old butts (Not just yet however). I have taught many peoples on this very slab the basics of friction, leading, top roping etc... It is in my eyes one of the best for begining climbers. Unfortunatly it is super hot in the summer. But winter is great as it is in the sun most of the day. Congratulations again Jacob for a fine lead. You're on your way now. Be smart and become an old/bold climber..........
Great route, The photo is the wrong photo for it. This was my frist lead, 5 bolts on the face, I think there should be 6 though. 2 bolt anchor with a chain on top, One of the bolts might need to be replaced soon. Locker told me that so Its gotta be true.. one of the bolts on the face i think it was the 3rd was a little bit loose, which scared me. But i think its a great route to teach on.. Too bad its not a multi pitch... Go later in the evening because It was directly in the sun and was cooking our hands...
It is not the climb to fear-it's-the approach. Jacob, there are too many bolts on it....since Locker can climb it backwards and today I sang some silly Everly brothers song as I lead it, I'd say downrate it to 5.0.
By 72HW From: Los Angeles, CA Feb 19, 2008 rating: 5.7+
Really, really enjoyed this climb. Rolled out of the tent and headed over to this one after seeing some people on it the day before. On lead it felt like 5.7+ to my morning brain and feet, but later on top rope I simply ran up it with little effort. I would say this is a harder climb than Toe The Line by a long shot.
Absolutely recommended for those solid on 7's wanting to work on their head - you miss the move going up to the second bolt stance, you will deck. Great mind games!
Indian Palisades Corridor
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