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Campfire Crag - South Face
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Heart Slab 

5.8

   

FA: Bill Todd et. al. 10/86
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 99 page views

Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Oct 30, 2002


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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scramble up the gully left of and behind campsite 42. Towards the top, on the main south face of Campfire Crag, this route angles up and left past two bolts to the right end of a horizontal, then up past three bolts from there. Gear belay and walk/scramle off.


Protection 

Five bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" for an anchor.



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By Locker
Oct 2, 2003
rating: 5.6

Short way above the start is a horizontal crack that you can get some pro in. Not much of a help though. The one remaining bolt is a quarter inch job, but it's in good. The rock is solid and the climbing sound. For the novice I do not recommend it as a fall above UNO bolt is a "Deck delight" (no Thompsons Water Seal included), due to the runout. No anchors to rap or bring a partner up on. An obvious area (When you top out) can take some cams for an anchor. We did not find an easy walkoff (It also was dark yesterday when we finished. Light helps!!!) So I lowered Big D and took a long hike ending up saying "hi" to a bunch of screaming mimi's in the Group camping area on the north side of the rock (Whoops!). Overall it was a pretty fun, short one. Would make a good solo!

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 29, 2004

The bolts on this were replaced in Dec 2004. All the bolts were in place, but only the fourth had a hanger. The fifth is shaply off to the left, so you could miss it, but I don't see how you missed the first one. It now has five new 3/8" bolts, but no fixed anchor.

By Locker
Jan 1, 2005
rating: 5.6

whomever replaced the hangers thank you...........I think I'll go do it again.....................

By Locker
Apr 10, 2005
rating: 5.6

AS of 4/9/2005 this route has only two bolts/hangers on it. And frankly, they are all that are needed on this rather easy route.

By Woody Stark
Apr 11, 2005
rating: 5.6

This route's not worth the scramble to its base. How it ever got a 5.8 rating is beyond me.