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Varnished Wall
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With Malice And Forethought 

With Malice And Forethought 

5.7

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 70 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Oct 21, 2002


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BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall


Description 

With Malice and Forethought is located on the north side of the Varnished Wall, about 40' to the left of Crank Queenie. Climb up a crack, clip the bolt, and then pull through the roof to the right and easier ground. Although awkward, it is possible and recommended to back up the 1/4" bolt with a nut or TCU.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: rap off slung horns with one quicklink.


Protection 

A few nuts, 1 bolt (1/4").



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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Mar 21, 2003

Note that the 1/4" rusty death bolt has been replaced as of 1/2003.

By Brian Reynolds
May 19, 2003

I enjoyed this route. Definitely not a bomb in my opinion. It has an interesting range of moves in a nice location. Plus it's on one of the few north faces in Indian Cove, which is really nice on hot days in May!!! Didn't seem too hard for a 5.7, though. In fact, I found it significantly easier than both the 5.6 I climbed in Steve Canyon the day before (Deflowered), and the 5.7 I climbed the next day on Feudal Wall (Crown Jewel's 2nd pitch).

The rappel anchor is not confidence-inspiring.