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Varnished Wall
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Circle Of Benevolence 
Crank Queenie 
Double Crux 
Presence Of Grace 
With Malice And Forethought 

Crank Queenie 

5.8

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 101 page views

Submitted By: Mike Morley on Oct 21, 2002


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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Setting pro on Crank Queenie - (c) Scott Nomi


Description 

Crank Queenie is located on the NW side of the Varnished Wall. It is a shallow hand crack that is a bit tricky to protect for the first 20' (sideways-placed nuts, awkward cam placements). Above, the crack deepens and is quite pleasant.

Anchor: slung horn(s).

Descent: scramble off to climber's right or rap off slung horns as for With Malice and Forethought.


Protection 

Single cams .75 to 2", a couple of med/lg nuts.



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Varnished Wall

BETA PHOTO: Varnished Wall

"Crank Queenie" solo.<br />Photo by Blitzo.

"Crank Queenie" solo.
Photo by Blitzo.


Add Comment Comments on Crank Queenie
Show which comments —
By Murf
Nov 6, 2002

Thought the downclimb was harder than the climb. I love JT!

By Locker
Apr 3, 2005
rating: 5.8

Good rock, good moves for the grade

By Anonymous Coward
May 17, 2005

good toe jams. and i agree the downclimb was pretty hard.

By Blitzo
Sep 18, 2006

Looks like sinker jams from a distance, but they're not,

By veedublvr
From: ?, Ca
Dec 26, 2006
rating: 5.8

I thought that this was a pretty fun little crack, laybacking, fist jams, and a finger lock as well. I enjoyed climbing it. There is a nice horn to rap off of, when I went off there was a sling and a locking D (12-24-06)