Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Geoff about to be sandbagged
Description
The Right V Crack is pretty much in the middle of the Short Wall. Look for an obvious right-slanting crack that is usually blazed with a hefty line of chalk. The leaning section of the crack is kinda slippery for the fingers. Using your feet will make things go easier. At the end of the slanting portion, you pull over a very small roof into a crack that goes straight up. The route eases after the initial moves into the vertcal crack. Excellent thin crack route practice!
Protection
Small to medium nuts, small to med cams. A couple of big cams can be used at the top to set an anchor. Bring long slings or cordalette.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 28, 2002
A good lead as well, but as mentioned, the heavily-chalked finger crack tends to get damn greasy. If you want to practice your "greasy finger crack" technique, try this one mid-afternoon on a nice summer's day. ;)
I've climbed a lot of 10's at jtree (probably 100 or more, probably 60+ of them on lead) and I would call this route 10c, at least for the lead. Dunno about TR, I've only lead it, but it's no 10a on lead I guarantee you. Definitely an excellent lead, excellent!
Short Wall
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