Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Moosedog Tower - SW Face
Description
Tranquility goes up the toe of the south buttess of Moosedog Tower and. At the alcove about 50 feet up, curve right around the overhang to the 1st "summit." Continue up slabby face climbing to the top of the formation.
This climb gets one star only if you can't lead 5.8. Otherwise, skip this one and climb Direct South Face. Moosedog has a nice summit and a fun, free-hanging rappel descent, but this route is a fairly unpleasant way to get there. There are some nice moves off the ground, and the second pitch is fun, but the moves to get around the overhang on the first pitch, while not particularly difficult, pretty much suck.
Although a 60m rope will reach to the top, most climbers divide this into two pitches to alleviate rope drag. If you're comfortable on run out 5.6 slab, there's no need to build the intermediate belay -- just don't place any pieces on the second pitch.
Protection
Standard rack. Camalots to #3. Some smaller nuts may be useful on the second pitch.
Okay Locker. Coming soon to an experience near you will be an opportunity to prove to me that the right-hand crack is only 5.6. Being so easy, you won't need any pro at all. I'll even take pictures. Hell, you won't even need a belay.
we're talking about a pretty easy route here Karen and Woody..........it is not hard at all! If I were to need "PROOF" of leading this one this late in the game...........I might as well place myself in an "Old folks home".............Sorry you two had problems with it. But that in itself does not up the rating....The rating is relative...maybe you lead on "Off" days? Maybe I lead more than once the route on "on days"? Whatever the situation, I stick with 5.6 (Maybe Hard 5.6 if there is such a thing)
If you want the 5.6 take the exposed arete to the left of these cracks(tie off flakes)The two cracks above are 5.8 according to Al's book. I have done the left one it felt 5.8. The right I have no clue.Fun route either way.
Thank God (forgive me aclu ), now a little support. Locker, I'm always right. The crack to the right is rated 5.8; however, I found it a bit more demanding than that. It's a good deal more difficult than the left crack. The line shown on the picture on this site shows "Tranquility" going up the right crack. That is an error.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 16, 2006 rating: 5.6
Well, I on-sight free soloed it without having read this controversy and I don't recall any cognative dissodence regarding the grade or my location on this route. I thought 5.6 was fine for a grade on it.As well, I thought it was a really nice route and deserved more than 1 star. I'd recommend the route, which is the definintion of a 2-star route on this site. Maybe it's a 2-star solo but only a 1-star lead-climb due to the circuitous nature of it- no problem on solo, but not so nice with rope drag?
At the alcove, before moving into the right trending crack to get around the overhang, it didn't seem like a "sucky" move to me. Technical - yes - but not "sucky" as a couple of quite solid jams got me over to and established on the crack.
Moosedog Tower
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