Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Lluis Penalver-Aguila at the crux. Photo by Scott ...
Description
Fun, two pitch climb. Third class scramble to the right of The Castrum to reach the base. Climb straight up past the obvious bolt. The moves above the bolt are greasy and harder than the 5.7 given in guidebooks, although they can be easily avoided with a 5.6 chute 10-20 feet to the right. Above that, the climbing eases up a bit, but is consistently fun. Most parties set a belay on the intermediate ledge to relieve rope drag. Run out the second pitch on fun 5.5-5.6 terrain. Popular.
Protection
4 bolts (all 3/8"), standard rack and some shoulder-length slings. Best climbed in two pitches to avoid rope drag.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jan 3, 2003 rating: 5.9
I used a #4 nut to protect myself from decking before clipping the bolt (3/8"). The moves past the bolt are harder than 5.7, although I didn't move to the right as suggested.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks this is a total sandbag at 5.7 -- I tried it as one of my first leads a couple of years ago, and got totally spanked trying to get past the first bolt (of course, right after I finally gave up, some 12-year-old kid flew right up it, but that's JT for ya'). 5.9 sounds about right.
Getting past the first bolt is NOT 5.7 by any stretch of the imagination. Good thing that it is well protected at that point. The rest of the route is 5.7 or easier. And very varied.
The route goes all the way to the top, and can be done as a single long route. Just go past the ledge, up the following double crack, over the dyke, and up the face past 3 more bolts. The walkdown is not too bad.
A key hold has broken. It hasn't been 5.7 for several years
By C Miller Administrator Jan 27, 2006 rating: 5.9
A fun two-pitch outing that is worth doing if in the area. The FA of this was John Wolfe, which was discovered when replacing the original bolts on this route - the home-made hangers were stamped JCW.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jan 2, 2007 rating: 5.9-
Concur on it not being a 5.7! Its there, but, thin. Got a great DMM peanut stopper prior to the bolt. Seemed bomber.
Glad to see this listed as a 5.9 here; the crux definitely felt harder than the 5.7 in the old Vogel guidebook. The crux is definitely the moves around the bolt. The crimps are solid but small and sharp and smearing is the way to go. The move from the undercling to the upper seam is a fun little section!
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