Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Making a valiant attempt
Description
Fun climb -- thin edges and smears to fingertip lieback moves near the top. A great opportunity to get familiar with JTree friction on an easily TR'd climb. Also a great climb to break into the 5.10 range and boost that ego! Popular.
Protection
Thin (small nuts, cams to 1" at the biggest)and difficult to protect. Easily TR'd with some long slings.
The guide is incorrect. The route shown as 'The Castrum' is actually Duchess (5.6-5.7? mixed pockets and a off again on again flaring crack). Castrum is the thin finger crack/face just to the right of #4. If you look carefully, you can see the chalk in the crack on the upper section.
Fun thin route, but definitely hard to protect and thin. Don't forget the aliens!
I've led this route twice in the last year, and I disagree with the rating. I'd give it at least 10b instead of an a. It's a sweet, little route that requires a bit more attention to pro placement than usual. It should also be given a star--maybe two.
By Chris Miller Administrator Nov 23, 2003 rating: 5.9+
A nice climb...all 20' of it! This climb offers a few good moves but is over far too quickly to stick in your long term memory.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Nov 23, 2003 rating: 5.10a
Yeah this is a short route, but I like to climb it at least once a season. I feel that the 10a rating is on.
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Nov 21, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I done this route three times, and I agree it's short, but it is fun.
This route actually protects really well with stoppers and TCUs or the equivalent. Given that, it'd be a shame to toprope it, which seems to be the norm for many these days.
Feudal Wall
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