Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Following up the start of "We Dive At Dawn"
Description
This route is right in the center of Billboard Buttress. Just look for the nice crack that's dying to be climbed. Tricky initial section leads to a left-leaning bit, then on up easier ground to the top. The old guide indicates that you climb around the left side of the top. You can also just break right to a big crack, slip the #4 Camalot in there, and climb the thin face straight to the anchor (expect this to feel hard and scary!). Rap from the top.
Protection
Standard rack. Nuts and cams. Bolted anchor on top.
Definitely solid 5.8. The first move onto the face at the end (I guess you could call it a "direct finish"?) is pretty thin, but there are better hands if you move a few feet to your right.
A further comment: Be sure to place two points before taking off on the first twelve feet or so. Place them as high as possible even if it means stepping up on the obvious hold and having someone hold the leader in place to do so. Also, it's a good idea to have the belayer stand on the rock at the base to supply a soft cushion if the leader falls and the pro goes along for the ride. That saved my bacon once. The initial moves are getting a bit harder due to the rock getting greasy. For an eight, this route has a history of numerous falls in the first few feet. Also, there is a tendency for the pro to pop out with semi- horizontal stress. Enjoy. Oh, one more thing, breaking right at the top bypasses a challenging final problem. Don't be a wuss.
Monday,I watched a young fellow lead the first fifteen feet of this route without pro. He was tentative and backed off a couple of times before finally making the moves. This is a dangerous route if the leader doesn't protect the first few feet: you'll land on the rock at the bottom if you blow it. It can be protected with an excellent, small stopper and a bomber, small cam a bit higher. Many people don't carry the small wires and that's a mistake. In a previous note, I said that there was concern that the pro might pull if one falls with horizontal stress; I now think the cam won't. Further, If the moves get any greasier, It will be a solid nine.
I led this one without putting pro in the first 15 feet. I would agree with Woody that you should throw a small stopper in. As for the "bomber cam" above mentioned, I saw nothing but poor alien placements in the first few feet.All the placements were solid and came along at just the right time for me. Solid and fairly sustained 5.8 for the first half to the ledge.I didn't have a large cam with me so the final face moves were really run-out. Traverse right if you really can't handle the runout but it is much more rewarding to do this one the right way.
There was one ok small placement low but it wasn't more than 6 ft off the ground so what's the point. There's a perfect green C3 at about 12 feet on your left (just below the level of the bolt on the route to the right), a little work getting there but it's really not that bad. After that it can be sewn up if you wish.
Billboard Buttress
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