Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Al Swanson on "Tarawassie Wiggle". Photo by Blitzo...
Description
Tarawassie goes up the face between Sweat Band and Plain But Good Hearted (right side of south face of King Otto). The line looks inviting from below and offers some good climbing. If it had been climbed today, it would have featured a few bolts, but it wasn't, so you have to either toprope, or climb on tricky thin face and trust to micronuts. Definitely worth doing if you already have a rope slung on Sweat Band.
Protection
I'd guess most just TR this line, but if you decide to lead it, take a good set of micronuts and a few small to medium cams.
Bill Briggs and I climbed this route recently. We both felt it was overrated. Bill felt 5.9; and I,leading, felt 10a. It's a great route; and,with the exception of the traverse at the top, easy to protect.
One more comment: this route takes small wires all the way; and they're bombers if you take the time to place them well. It's a great route for learning to place the tiny guys. Also, make sure you have a good piece in before you start the traverse; you've a way to go.
This is an awesome route! I just led it for the first time last month. Just make sure you have LOTS of small to tiny brass stoppers on your rack! I also had some small aleins and cams. The pro was pretty good until the exit move which, although pretty easy, was scarey to run out on a brass nut! Let's just say I got my arenaline rush for the day.I could see adding a bolt at the top, but I didn't get the first ascent. None the less, I thought was awesome and I would like to do it again. By the way, you do use all removeable gear, but it is mainly excellent face climbing.
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