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King Otto's Castle
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Plain But Good Hearted 

5.6

   

FA: Todd McMasters, Bruce Linton, and Bob Vinnacombe, March 1977
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 100 feet
Views: 171 page views

Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 25, 2002


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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! MORE INFO >>>

Al Swanson soloing "Plain But Good Hearted".
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Description 

Although only probably worth one star, this is long moderate route with fairly decent protection and some nice climbing. On the right margin of the south face of King Otto, there's a kind of "fold" in the rock. The crack formed by this fold is the route. Begin on the right side of the south face, climb up a short face section to get to the crack, then follow the crack. Near the top, you'll have to set pro (#2/#3 Camalot) and launch out across the face above (bit to the left). Run the rope across to the Sweat Band anchors and you're home. Rappel from the Sweat anchors (FULL 60m rope required!!!)


Protection 

Good selection of cams from small to large (#3) Camalot. Set of nuts. Either two ropes or a full 60m rope to rap from the Sweat Band anchors.



Add Comment Comments on Plain But Good Hearted
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By Kelly
Jun 28, 2003

If you like to crack climb, you won't enjoy the run out face at the top.

By Carol
Dec 15, 2003
rating: 5.6

agreed with Kelly. as a conservative and petite climber, I felt getting to the face up top was a bit PG.

also found a couple larger pieces helpful (camalots #3.5 and #4).

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 7, 2004

Definitely PG

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 18, 2004

My girlfriend tried this as one of her first leads. Bad idea. The crux is funky and not very well protected. If you are a new leader and not confident running it out on 5.6, this route is not for you.

By Locker
Nov 28, 2004

The "Runout" face moves are all there big time. Super solid. But for beginners..........might be better to avoid this until they get their head on right..........otherwise for the rest of us........this thing is fun. The move from the crack to the face is pretty damned cool for a climb of this rating......

By Ryan Avery
Jan 26, 2005
rating: 5.6

Wierd Pro to say the least. For extra fun, lead it with only hexes and couple smallish cams. I think there were a total of two good pieces of pro on this one. Not your usual runout face for Josh as it was not so frictiony and more "5.6 edging".

Worth doing if you are in the area and solid at the grade.

By David C. Burke
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 1, 2007
rating: 5.6

Saving a #1 Camalot for the face is helpful. There is a pocket on the face about halfway through the run out that fits a #1 Camalot pretty well. I agree that this would not be a great first lead for someone trying to build confidence with their traditional climbing.