Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Brett raps the route.
Description
Sweat Band is the face along the right side of the south face of King Otto's Castle (about twenty feet left of the fold that marks the Plain But Good Hearted route). The first bolt is at the top of an easy slab. This part is a bit runout and should be taken seriously. After you reach the main wall and the first bolt, the route rears back. Steep moves lead past five more bolts to the top. Excellent climbing! To rappel with a single line from the anchors to the ground, you need a full 60m rope!! Be careful!
Toproping: It is possible to toprope this route with one 60m rope after leading Plain But Good Hearted, but be careful when rapping!
Protection
6 bolts to a bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"). Fairly well bolted once you reach the first one.
For what it's worth, I led it again a couple of weeks ago and went straight for the bolt at the crux instead of moving right and reaching out to clip with my left hand. It is most definitely a 10c if done this way. This may be why it was originally rated b/c. I have no idea what the immediate terrain beyond would be like because as I was reaching out to clip the rock goddess had another plan for me.
The bolts on this route were replaced by me, and while it may have been efficacious to move certain bolts to better locations I chose not to and simply replaced them as they were. No bolts were added, simply replaced.
If Chris said he replaced it, he replaced it. Be that as it may, the times I led it, I placed a firm cam in the horizontal and clearly didn't notice the old bolt. I was probably to the right of it a bit. It's easy to see now because of the white chipped area around it. Locker and I both thought it odd. It's also about knee level above the crack. So put it on your death list Murf.
I wasn't impressed with this route at all. Interesting moves at times but I forgot it as soon as I rapped off. Good bye Mr. Bond is way better. Either way, the heckling tourons at the base really bug me anyway. Indian Cove is best saved for a week day with no boy scouts or other objectionable sorts yelling "Use your feet!" to thier fellow "climbers".
Sweat band is awsome at 10c. whoever added the last bolt needs a raise. great route. easy climbing to first bolt.
By susan peplow From: what day is this? Oct 28, 2006 rating: 5.10c
Don't let any of these guys fool you.....10c for sure. Easier than Pet or meat but solid for the grade. Shame on you Randy for downgrading. Just because it's bolted doesn't mean it's soft!
Susan -- We've done this route several times, including last year. If you climb to the right of the bolts it is far easier than trying to climb up by them. While I understand Chris replacing the bolts were they were originally, they are not in the appropriate places for leading the route. It may have been rap bolted?
If you're really flexible and can high-step to your waist at the crux...maybe 10b, for stiff folks maybe 10c. More secure/less tenuous than most off-vertical Josh face routes of similar ratings. Couldn't really argue with either rating.
King Otto's Castle
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