Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Rattlesnake Buttress is on the lft in the shade.
Description
A smooth gray face at the top of Rattlesnake Canyon. Taken for Granite (5.8-) and 200 Motels (5.8-) are visible from the car, both are super.
Getting There
Hike up Rattlesnake Canyon 20-30 minutes until the canyon turns right, directly below the crag. Continue in the wash a bit, then scramble back up and left to the right end of the crag, near Test Pilot. (There is a steep drop off just below the main buttress.)
This takes the smooth face a ways left of 200 Motels/Taken For Granite that passes over a small roof/overlap midway up. Sustained climbing with a distinct crux is played out on high-quality stone far better than the usual Indian Cove oatmeal. Not too far from the car, but far enough away to get a feel for the wildness that Rattlesnake Canyon has to offer. Well worth a visit for this or one of the other fun routes on Rattlesnake Buttress....[more]
A bit more approach beta: This buttress and its outstanding cracks are visible from many points in Indian Cove. It appears as a blank face with a set of two cracks, reminiscent of the "K cracks" of Pingora fame. The approach hike takes approximately 35-45 minutes from the Day Use Area and trailhead for Rattlesnake canyon. The approach is the crux of these climbs. Scramble up wash, past slickrock slabs, potholes, pools, and narrows to the main part of this wild, spectacular canyon. After some time walking through the wide sandy canyon above the slickrock and narrows below, arrive at a distinct, house-sized boulder (on your left) with a detached flake in front of it. At this point, leave the main canyon bearing left, up a faint gully, staying right of the buttress. At this point Rattlesnake Buttress will appear to be above and slightly to your left. Follow your nose through the boulders, keeping your eyes peeled for cairns.The approach is somewhat tedious, but your persistence will be rewarded. Careful cairn-following leads to the base of both Taken for Granite and 200 Motels.
Rattlesnake Buttress
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