Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Corona and Dos Equis Wall
Description
The sheer, dark brown Dos Equis is one of the more spectacular-looking walls in Indian Cove, and sports a handful of relatively long, moderate/difficult routes with some nice exposure.
The South Buttress (5.7) is a nice climb along the edge of the face, and some nice-looking climbs on the face itself include FLARE PLAY (5.10b), Scare Way (5.10b), The Highwayman (5.11b), and SKID ROW (5.10b).
Corona Wall is a smaller wall located further up the gully from Dos Equis, which offers slightly easier and shorter climbs.
Single rope rap from a collection of not-particularly-well-placed bolts on a small ledge near the left side of Dos Equis.
Getting There
Dos Equis and Corona are located on the southwest face of the second to last major formation as you head out towards the west end of family camp area in Indian Cove (if you get to Moosedog Tower, you've gone too far). Approach to the South Buttress is direct and very close to the road; the rest of the climbs are located up the gully to the left of the formation.
Does anyone (Chris / Randy) know what the excellent six bolt route is situated in between the Highwayman and Skid Row? It ends on the Skyline Finish variation (two pitons) to The Highwayman. Very difficult moves to the sixth bolt and short traverse to the Skyline Finish after the 6th bolt.
Not too sure of the name but it and the 4 bolt route to the left of Skid Row (5.10b) were done by Bob Gaines.
Originally the route in question had 6 bolts and 3 fixed pins to a two bolt anchor (I've heard the anchor is gone and it would not surprise me if any of the pins were missing). The climbing is sustained with a crux at the 4th and 6th bolts. The hardest moves were in the beat-out horizontal seam. Given 5.12a but proabably more like solid 5.12b.
There is a piton after the third bolt but it is very close to the fourth bolt and unnecessary. The two pins at the top are rusty but seemingly solid. You could also get small TCU's or brass / small stoppers in for pro but at that point I was just interested in finishing the climb. I agree that the crux moves are solid 5.12. I thought the moves getting to the sixth bolt were comparable in difficulty to the moves after the sixth bolt.
I forgot to mention that the anchors are gone. Whoever chopped them didn't remove the steel shafts or fill in the holes. Also, the horizontal seam above and right of the 6th bolt did appear to be chipped. I used an edge big enough for one and a half finger tips while reaching to the crack.
The route is called Tecate 5.12b. The route was originally climbed with some aid (including hooks) and the "beat out seam" above the 6th bolt was nailed with a couple rurps & copperheads. The 4 bolt route on the left side of the face is called Chihuahua 5.10b.
Corona/Dos Equis Wall
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