The Bong 

The Bong is particularly exceptional when compared to other 5.4 climbs around. I'd probably give it 2 stars out of 5, but on a scale of 0 to 3, I'd only give it 1. If it were only a bit longer ...

This is a great "first trad lead" to recommend to people. It's fun & easy to protect. Use caution about the downclimb, however. You may want to offer a belay to inexperienced climbers, or at least spot them from below and help them with foot placement. I'd call the downclimb 4th class rather than 5th, but still it's not exactly a stroll in the park.

Fun, but too short! Good solo! Can see why it is considred a good "First trad lead". Looked easy to protect, decent walk off, easy approach. All the makings of a good one for all that enjoy either soloing or whatever..........

I was pleasantly surprised to find two pieces of webbing with rap rings already slung around the boulder at the top. As of 3.10.2004 they were in good shape and saved me the awkward downclimb.

I did my first ever Trad lead on this route a few years back, it was a good choice for that because of how well it protected.

Dubious crack climb that would rank 3 stars if it were about 80ft. longer. Great gear placements with one or two tricky moves. Pretty solid and great for J-Tree beginners.

This is a great climb for the beginning leader as far as the climbing and the protection goes.BUT, the downclimb leaves chicken hearted leaders like me nervous.I have done three different descents off the Blob and each one had its own bad points.

(i) First time I walked over to the opposite end of the rock and set up a rap station with webbing.There were traces of older webbing.Anyway, we rapped over Mama Woolsey and it was definitely awkward getting started on the rap.

(ii) Second descent is the chimney on the west face near to Buissonier/Papa Woolsey.The chimney is a bit slick from all the people sliding down ---it is 5th class, but secure and the exposure is low.

(iii) The descent next to the Bong is the worst in my opinion.It is 4th class maybe, but the exposure is high and a fall can be very ugly.

To sum up, set up a rap station if you can, else opt for the chimney descent.If you fall, at most you'll lose some skin and twist your ankle.

Good climb for the grade, I recommend it over the eye or other similarly graded climbs. Great gear, and the roofs offer a good psycological challege as some have looked at them from the ground and thought they needed to jam through them, when in face the roofs are easily climbed using flakes and good jugs. Gear is good throughout. Small to medium gear will build and anchor under the boulders at the top, or if you have long webbing, you can sling one (If you're feeling generous, add a steel quicklink or rap ring). We descended via chimneys and ledges to the left of the route as you face it from the base. Parts were exposed, but it wasn't impossible.

Oh come on... this is a 5.4 handcrack, and as far as 5.4 handcracks go this is fricken' classic! Seriously. You can jam your way all the way up at a nice modest grade. How many 5.4 handcracks do you know? Awesome climb and classic IMO. And yes, the downclimb is about 5.2 - make sure you have a plan if this is your first trad lead.

Fun!

Beginners will have no trouble with the route itself, they may injure themselves getting to or off of it however.

If you are truly a beginner bring a long rappel sling and rings to leave up top. Otherwise downclimb left at low 5th class back to the base of the climb.

The easiest approach (and I have done many) is to walk up a dike tending up and left on the west face of The Blob. This dike widens to a sidewalk higher up and is a very cool geologic feature. This dike will also take you to the base of Beginner's Two on the way to The Bong.

this was my favorite lead route at J-tree. good route to push the new leader. dont try to jam through the roof, use lieback flakes on the left to gain some ground then sink a hand jam in the main crack above the roof. easy sailing from there. my partner and i just rapped b.c we are lazy. As of 4.10.07 there was a nice rap anchor at the top. might be gone by the time you climb it, so if you are not prepared for the downclimb make sure you bring some webbing and rap rings to safely get down. you will have fun on this route!

As of 10/13/2007 there was a good piece of webbing slung around a bolder at the top of this climb, however it didn't have rings..

Benjiman - I removed the single piece of webbing you speak of as it was really nothing more than trash.

Excellent gear placements can be found just right of the block for a belay, and rapping off is a poor choice as the edge of the rock is about 30' away - pulling your rope might be possible from the vicinity of Labor Dome (if you're lucky); an easy down-climb exists a short ways to the northeast as well.

--Lovely view from the belay station
--Great hand holds to the left of the little roof to get around it
--Easily do-able without hand or foot jamming, but I found some great jugs inside the crack
--There were a couple of chalk-covered holds that otherwise wouldn't have been so obvious
--Placement and removal of pro was really easy
--Descent is FUN! But it was my first class 4 and a little nervewracking. Be ready for stemming or chimneying.

Andy is right on. For the grade, I would call it a stout route. And about at good as it gets. And the descent is awesome. The round trip package is about as good as it gets to a mini adventure.

This was a fun lead, and the walkoff is nothing to fear at all. If you like this and wish it was longer, try Route 66 on Gilligan's Island. It's much longer and a better crack, IMHO.