Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock - West Face
Description
The obvious wide crack left of Pinched Rib is a good exercise in fist jamming/offwidth climbing. Despite appearances it's better than it looks and the only thing lacking is length. Descend off right (climber's)-same as Pinched Rib.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jan 6, 2003 rating: 5.9
I would not have called this an Offwidth. I would have called it a fist crack. Rack up to a #4 camalot, but until the top (belay anchor) the biggest thing I used was 3.5". The belay anchor can be set with a small tricam (red, I think it was) + a #7 rock and a #4 camalot. The downclimb is a little scarey for some, so if you are with less advanced climbers, please consider letting your partners rap off of the anchor and then down-climb alone.
two stars. if you don't like sustained jamming, less, but if you do, it's quite fun.
Middle of the road 5.9, unless you have very small hands. Small female climbers who may have to stack hands or arm-bar.
In my opinion this is probably the best route on Chimney Rock and a mandatory lead for those working their way up the grades on cracks. I agree with Tony that (at least for Men w/ average sized hands) this is a fist crack in a flare more than an OW. Also agree that the downclimb is probably not best for people on their first weekend of climbing, though by the same token this is not a good climb necessarily for a first time climber :)
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 11, 2007 rating: 5.9
Good burly fun! Nothing larger than a #4 needed, but #3.5 Camalots would fit best.
We had 50+ mph winds on the day we did it, and didn't feel like the sketchy downclimb in the breeze. Instead, we climbed up and over and dropped in to the top of the Flue - where there are rap anchors. 4th class the entire way. We had to navigate around some boulders, and through a squeeze gap, but it was fine.
Definitely a fist crack, even for my slightly smaller than average hands. Yes, there are wider sections where I placed pro (as to not block the better jams) but I don't remember a point on the route where I didn't have fist jams I could hang singly off of. 5.9 seems fair, as does 2 stars out of 5. Good, but too short to earn any more.
This is one my favorite climbs at hidden valley campground. i like wide cracks. it was cupped hands for me and i might have used a fist. others have said they used fists for most of it. feet are tough as you enter the crack then it eases off. very enjoyable.
Chimney Rock - West Face
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