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The Blob - West Face
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Beginner's Two 

5.2

   

FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.4 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 170 feet
Views: 460 page views

Submitted By: Kelly on Apr 29, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Beginner's Two


Description 

A beauty to look at, it had to be done. Who care's the grade if the climbing is fun?


Protection 

Pro to 3"



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One of my first trad leads.

One of my first trad leads.

This part at the beginning seems much harder than 5.2

BETA PHOTO: This part at the beginning seems much harder than ...


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By Mike Morley
Administrator
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 30, 2003

Just to add to Kelly's description, Beginner's Two lies a little ways right (south) of The Bong. I've always descended to climber's left to the top of the Bong, and then downclimbed as for that route. However, this might be a case where the downclimb is harder than the actual route! Does anyone know of the easiest descent option?

By Anonymous Coward
Apr 30, 2003

Sounds like there is a need for a convenience anchor; maybe even two sets for people who climb this route with 135 meter rope.

By Flying T
May 1, 2003

Perhaps contracting all concessions to Disney will help. Then all descents will be easily identified through the gift shops, where you can buy a photo of your face at the crux.

See The Blob comments for a 5.0 descent off the northeast.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 5, 2006
rating: 5.7

The easiest descent is East (towards the Old Woman). Walk and scramble along the crest of the formation. Continue heading downhill (Class 2-3) until reaching the top of Papa Woolsey. There are slings and rap rings around a large chalkstone. It is also possible to descend to the south (from atop Papa Woolsey) via a 5.0 path.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 5, 2006
rating: 5.7

Although "Beginner's Two" is an extremely fun route, prospective climbers should know that there are 2 distinct 5.7 cruxes---yes 5.7! The first is leaving the large alcove at the start of the main crack (you may be able to bypass this crux with some unprotected face climbing out to the left). The second comes near the top of the formation and pulls through a short off-width section.

This is NOT a beginners route.

By Blitzo
Sep 23, 2006

Wow, sounds a lot harder than it was back in 1977. Maybe I'll go do it again.

By Will S
Jan 10, 2008
rating: 5.6

Easiest descent is probably to walk climber's right across the top of the formation to the far right end of the west face and descend low angle and ledgy terrain southwest to a point where you can work back a bit west to the top of the chimney descent commonly used for Bussonier. You will know it's the right chimney because there is an old bolt sleeve (no bolt) right at the top of the chimney. Basically go to the far right, follow the path of least resistance down to the chimney.

This route is a giant sandbag for the rating. Involves a fair amount of wide climbing on low angle terrain with a crux where is steepens just before the top. Realistically probably 5.6+. Probably not a great new leader route. Although I wasn't on a rope and not looking for them, I didn't really see many places you would get gear. The Bong is a much better route both for climbing and for a new leader (it's also easier).

By Meredith Moseley
From: San Jose, CA
Feb 26, 2008
rating: 5.5

When I did this last week, my partner and I rapped off of bolts with a nest of webbing on the other side of the rock. It's mostly a free rappel, and it landed us on a large ledge that was still about 12 feet or so off the ground. He slung a boulder, took all my gear, and rapped down to the ground. Then I dismantled his anchor and climbed down a convenient tree.

The point is: the descent isn't obvious, and the top of the formation is pretty big, so make sure you know where to head once you're done with the route (I wish we had).

By Mark L
May 12, 2008

The Climb: Sand bag at "5.2". That is nothing new for 40 year old routes however. Stemming up the start could go at 5.5 but near the top of that section I went left on the face and regretted the decision. I probably would have been happier sitcking to the stemming a little longer.
Grovel on up through the long, tight 5.2-5.4 OW. Dont look for much pro from the beginning of the climb until after the second crux either unless you've brought a few 4-5" cams. Nearly the entire crack is 4-6" wide and flared and little other pro exists where you need it. Carrying up to a #3 camalot I could only get (primarily near the more challenging parts) 4 or 5 pieces of gear in on the 180' from start to the top. Keep on up through a few other minor challenges to what Matthew refers to as the 5.7 OW. I enjoy working on OW skills but this one was funky. Save a #3 camalot for the 2nd crux - perfect pod to fit one before starting the 2nd crux. I would suggest that you may want to be a 5.8 josh leader to tackle that little 15' OW section comfortably. There is not too much for hands and feet. You can hit whats below you with only that blue camalot in, so you dont want to botch it.

Anchor requires slightly larger gear in the main crack OR walk back further and there is a decent place to the right of the rack to use some medium pieces.

The descent: I don't think its reasonable to expect you will find the south descent without a lot of hunting. Agree with Mike the downclimb to the Bong descent looks not just harder than the climb up, but dangerous. Unless you want an adventure I dont know this route is worth doing unless you are with someone who knows the Bouisoneer descent or you know it. It's an easy chimney descent for someone use to j-tree descents but finding the top of it is somewhat hard. There is no rusted spinner bolt there anymore. A local climber I met mentioned the papa woolsey rap slings are not to be trusted lightly. Lastly, dont take a beginner on this climb without lowering them back off before you do the descent unless they are cool with hopping down boulders and 5.0 downclimbing with exposure.