Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Midway up Dogleg
Description
Very nice! Climb up an initial face section to gain the crack. The crack was off-fingers for me and a bit tricky, but patience will prevail. Good protection. Follow the vertical crack as it "doglegs" up and right to the top.
I and others are responsible for the rating problem on this route. In the sixties ratings were a good deal more conservative than today. It should be a solid nine and sustained.
As a solid 5.10 crack climber, I worked pretty hard on this route. My ego liked reading the comments above calling this route a possible 5.9. The start was pretty hard and while there are great stances throughout the climb, it is pretty sustained. With that said, leaving it as 5.8 or 5.8+ is probably appropriate as it isn't nearly as hard as Damper. But, no matter the rating, it is still a very fun climb.
A number 3 camalot is very nice to have as the crack doglegs to the right.
Great Route, Definitely an 5.8 or better. The crack spits you out about 3/4 up the route in one short section. It's commiting, but the moves are there if your head is.
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta, CA Oct 13, 2006
Bit of a grunt this one. I wouldn't argue with 5.9.
By Jay Knower Administrator Mar 27, 2007 rating: 5.8+
An excellent route. I thought the start move seemed very hard, but the rest of the climb was sinker hands for me. I have no idea what the start should be rated, but all but the first five feet felt about 5.8.
Apparently you can traverse in right to make the start easier. This is a nice crack and makes a good "approach" for Geronimo on the other side of the formation.
I'd agree with most of the above statements. The route seemed to want to spit me out constantly. I'd suggest a solid 5.8+ rating, and if 5.8 is your limit, start on double cross and then climb this one.
The Old Woman - West Face
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