Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
BETA PHOTO: Peewee Rock as viewed from the parking area. Peewe...
Description
Located on the right side of the north face just right of a prominent right-slanting wide crack, The Belly Scraper (5.4), and left of another bolted line, The Oui-Oui (5.10c).
Scramble up to a ledge and boulder up to clip a glue-in bolt which protects a mantle up and right onto a ledge below a left-slanting ramp system. Lieback up the ramp to a manky looking fixed pin (a 1" cam can be placed 3' below to back-up the pin) which protects awkward, balancy moves (5.10a) to get established on a small ledge below a section of attractive face. From here the rock quality improves and fun climbing up plated face and friction leads to a sport anchor below the top.
Great moves on this route but the rock quality in the lower portion leaves something to be desired. With time, and more ascents, this will get buffed out and become a popular climb in this area.
Protection
5 bolts, 2 fixed pins, sport anchors. Optional 1" cam.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca May 3, 2006 rating: 5.10a
One can clip the lower piton and make a hard move or forget about it and go about 8-10 feet right and take a ramp to the bolt above. From there the left slanting crack takes a small cam along with clipping another piton. The piton is solid for now. The crux requires getting the feet on the face left of the crack as well as moving one's hands out of the ever shallowing crack to the beachball holds on the left. Mantle and its over. 4 more bomber bolts protect easy climbing on super rock to the top. Super nice sport anchors at the top.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Jackson Hole, WY Apr 18, 2008 rating: 5.10-
As of April 2008, the pitons have been replaced with bolts. A small cam is still useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The move past the first bolt seems WAY harder than 10a to me. The leaning crack bit is funky and fun.
Peewee Rock
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